SAN BLAS ISLANDS OF PANAMA:
We finally departed Colon area after
"hanging around" five months in the Panama Canal area. There was
a stop at an island called Isla Linton along the 75
miles there. Some cruisers stay in the San Blas for 8-10 years or even a life time.
It is easy to see why as the islands are so inviting for just relaxing and
enjoying a true isolated tropical paradise.
The San Blas islands (located at 9º35'N,
78º46'W) are over 340
islands stretching along Panama's Caribbean Coast over the eastern part of the
continental shelf. We visited only six. They are home to the indigenous Kuna Indians, who have
preserved their culture and traditions out of all the tribes in all the
Americas. This is one of the most untouched stretches of virgin rainforest
and cruising ground with incredible beauty all in one place. This area
is called Kuna Yala and they effectively control this quarter of Panama.
There are no fences nor does any of the tribe members control any of the island
land. Kunas treat their forests as we treat an anchorage. You can
pass through and benefit but do not claim possession. This is why the area
looks much the same as when Balboa first arrived in the 1500's.
The Kunas are physically small, compared
in tribal shortness only by the pygmies. They are beautiful people who
have boundless energy and healthy and very friendly. The women dress in a
beautiful tradition that makes them gorgeous and pleasant to look at. The one thing they
own are all the coconuts on every palm tree one can see on every island.
As visitors we are not allowed to touch the coconuts for fear of becoming
"single-handed" sailors literally. Their machetes are razor
sharp.
We stopped at the first set of islands called
Chichime. The islands were everything everyone claimed they were. 
And
the Kuna Indians were quick to show their inventory of Molas. 
We
also met up with some dear cruiser friends on Hebe, Tim & Ariel and their
new crew member David. Here is Hebe at anchor on the far right on another
beautiful sunrise. 
and
we enjoyed their company while in Chichime. 
we
had to have a photo op on a local white sand beach deserted island 
Tim
must have found something off the camera. 
Now
they both see it - what could it possibly be except the bathing beauty about to
arrive. 
Well,
maybe not but it makes for a great story line. But, they had a perfect
weather window so off to Providencia, Columbia for them. 
Looks
like Tim had the first reef watch. Now Yen & I had to find some way to
entertain ourselves. 
So
we sat on the same palm tree. By the way, that is not Jabba the Huge there
with the shirt on. It has to be the bagginess of the sun protecting
shirt. You believe that, right. This has to be a destination for future
SI photo shoots so we wanted to be first. 
We finally sailed off to the next set of islands four miles away, Lemon Cays with
incredible snorkeling. 
And
then a nine mile sail to the Western Holandes for more white sand beaches and
palm trees. 
Of course, we had to anchor right next to the beach in 20 ft. of water. A
typical hut on these islands consist of local materials and are waterproof.
Everyone sleeps on hammocks so they appear very comfortable. The accommodations
were sparse but location, location, location. 
The other interesting fact about the San Blas Kuna Indians are their little
question of who they are - a boy or a girl. We noticed that on every island especially
in the Western Holandes the boys thought they were all girls and when they
were in their dresses and make-up they were still very ugly but it made them
interesting and fun to talk to. 
Those are all boys standing with the Yen and Moonlight on the water. Then
it was time for the Swimming Pool in the Eastern Holandes. This a huge
anchorage with 8-10 ft. of water and just a little stunning in every
way. Even the daily yoga classes were a treat for Yen. 
The
resident cruiser who says he is now a live aboard in the Swimming Pool is Reg
(on the left) who has been here for nine years. 
His
boat is Runner and he cares for BBQ island where great pot-lucks occur every
Monday night. Overall, the swimming pool in the eastern Holandes
were our favorite anchorage. 
These
are a few of the magnificent views we had to put up with everyday. 
Here
is BBQ island where the daily yoga classes take place and weekly potlucks and
every jumping roping sessions. Simple things in a cruisers paradise.
Swimming
or snorkeling was 2-3 hours a day activity to stay cool. 
Grocery shopping in San Blas was along side the boat - everything from cucumbers
to chicken to gasoline all in one boat at good prices. So all that
resulted in Yen being creative again and making some "Martha Stewart be
jealous" pizza. These were inspired from the pizza at Hebe one
night. The egg plant and pineapple/ham were gourmet delicious
and
now have become a stable aboard Moonlight. But on April 20th after a
year in Panama, we
decided to sail north as the winds were about right for Yen (nothing) and the
seas flat as a piece of glass so off we
sailed 275 miles to the NW towards Providencia.
